Condensation Problem?
bigspfan asked:
Condensation on my windows in the winter is a major problem. I’ve been looking at dehumidifiers, but wonder how effective they really are. What size would I need for 675 sq. ft and for an area of 200 sq. ft? Also, would adding a plastic/vinyl vapor barrier under the house help…or is such a thing just a lot of hype?
Enedina
Condensation on my windows in the winter is a major problem. I’ve been looking at dehumidifiers, but wonder how effective they really are. What size would I need for 675 sq. ft and for an area of 200 sq. ft? Also, would adding a plastic/vinyl vapor barrier under the house help…or is such a thing just a lot of hype?
Enedina
Tags: Condensation, Plastic Vinyl, Vapor Barrier
February 8th, 2010 at 7:13 pm
Kattie
I don’t know what your winter temps are, but condensation on your windows is due to their getting cold and your indoor humidity condensing on them like on a glass of ice water. You definitely do not want a dehumidifier. Indoor air in the winter is usually too dry. When you heat a colder air with a given relative humidity you are decreasing the relative humidity. This is why people use humidifiers in the winter.
You can decrease or eliminate the problem by getting storm windows or getting the removable clear plastic window sheets that are designed to act as an interior storm window. These are available at Home Depot or any large hardware store.
If you already have storms, then either the storms are very leaky and need to be caulked or your interior windows are too loose and need to be sealed for the winter. Again, there is a rope made of putty that you put around your windows to seal them. Alternatively, you can use the clear plastic interior storm windows mentioned above (landing up with storms, normal window, and interior storm)
Hope this helps
February 8th, 2010 at 9:16 pm
Luba
Let’s look at THE BASICS: 1)water condenses on your windows because the cold outside air squeezes the moisture out of your INSIDE air which is at a higher temperature and HIGHER HUMIDITY. 2) There are three options and using all or any two should help - a)provide vapor barriers - UNDER the house IF it is wet there. b) increase the interior temperature which will force down the interior humidity and c)dehumidify with dehumidifiers.
Modern dehumidifiers are very effecient and work very well. They also generate some heat and that will further reduce room humidity. Humidifiers are sold/priced based upon amount of water drained per 24 hours. A 24 pint dehumidifier would remove 24 pints (3 gallons) of water from the air in a very humid room in 24 hours. For the larger room I would use a large unit (say 64 pints) and maybe a 24 pint unit for the smaller room. Use of an oscillating fan on the floor will improve their effeciency.
The major problem is geting rid of the water - if you do not have a hose connection to the outside or a sump pit then the container when full will automatically shut off the unit until the approximately one gallon catch jug is emptied. Dehumidifiers have built in humidstats so you can adjust the dryness level of the room air and they automatically cycle on and off at a frequency that depends upon your dryness setting and the humidity of the room. SUGGEST YOU RENT UNIT(S) AND TRY THEM BEFORE INVESTING IN PURCHASE(S
February 10th, 2010 at 6:28 am
Katie
Yes and Yes. Put 6 mil poly on the floor, seal all seams and seal the poly to the wall. You can use caulk or even great stuff foam. Buy a dehumidifier. It doesn’t have to be large, because once you get humidity down to 35-45 percent it won’t run much at all.
February 12th, 2010 at 3:41 am
Debi
Before investing in a dehumidifier, you should check out this alternative(see below)